Mar 14
2011
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10 Dresses: FebruaryPosted by Peanut in Sewing , Japanese Craft Books , Dress , 10 dresses |
This dress says summer to me. That hot, sticky part of summer where it's hard to believe it will really get cold again. This dress is so lightweight. The fabric is Liberty's Tana Lawn in two prints that make me think of my garden. The skirt is cut on the bias making for a close fit that still allows for movement (and feels perpetually crooked - the first half hour in a bias cut dress always involves a lot of shifting things around).
I made a few pretty basic mistakes with this dress: I didn't add enough seam allowance to the top of the back piece and had to zigzag and turn over the edge instead of doing a proper hem; and I completely failed to notice that the bodice pieces were supposed to be cut from a double thickness until after I'd sewn on the bias trim. I decided not to fix that. It was going to be too much bother to unpick all the bias trim and I'd always be wearing a bra under my dress anyway.
On that note though - I really need to get a strapless bra that has a more slippery texture. The Tana Lawn, while fantastic in every other respect, has a tendency to be very grabby towards other fabrics. In looser dresses is isn't such a big deal but in my closer fitting sundresses it pays to be wearing silkier under things. On a related note, I think this dress would make a remarkably pretty slip for wearing under other dresses. I'm thinking of some silk charmeuse and maybe a bit of lace along the hemline.
I had some trouble with the fit of the back of this dress. You can probably see the bit of gathering across the back from the elastic I put in initially to deal with things. I'm not sure if I stretched the top back of the dress when I was putting it together or if it was just too big but there seemed to be a lot of extra fabric between my hips and my shoulder blades. Even with the elastic there was no way to adjust the dress and not have a huge fold of fabric in the back. It was remarkably unflattering when you consider that the fit was near perfect through my hips. I ended up doing a bit of pin-fitting and then taking out the side seams part way and resewing them. I was a little surprised at how much fabric I removed from the upper back of my dress (about 4"/10cm - those are my sewing snips for scale) and I'm wondering if I drew out the wrong size or maybe even the wrong dress back when I copied the pattern pieces out of the book.
My fabric for March's dress should be arriving soon but I'm still waiting to hear if the shop has got a copy of the pattern I want to use. I can't believe I'm six dresses into my project and only four to go! It's getting more difficult to decide what patterns and fabrics to use - there are so many choices.